![]() ![]() There are many things involved in terms of equipment and technique (besides just the scope and camera), best bet is to join an astro forum (CloudyNights is a very good one imo) and get advice there. In that case, taking multiple stills at shutter speeds in the order of minutes each is the way to go. For those objects, long exposures are pretty much a must, so video will not work. ![]() Generally what are called "faint fuzzies". This includes all galaxies and nebulas, even comets. There are two distinct types of astrophotography which require two different approaches.įirst is deep sky. This way the features you're interested in are sharpest. It can do multiple stacking points, similar to what Rick mentioned about combineZ. ![]() With the 5D2, that process should be an order of magnitude easier to do and the end result much better.ītw, I use a program called Registax4 (free) for stacking moon/planets. ![]() Since the 40D does not do video, I had to resort to capturing the liveview window stream on my laptop using a third party software. I have used successfully the liveview feature of the 40D to image planets and the moon. At 1900 mm, Jupiter allows you about 60-90sec of frames before the final pic will start showing blurring due to rotation. Even more important, on planets like Jupiter, there is a maximum length of time you can take frames or video, because the planet's rotation is so fast. The last thing you'd want to do is take a long exposure of the moon, unless you're within perfect atmospheric conditions. Not sure if one of the liveview quiet modes would allow the image to be taken without the shutter curtain bouncing.Īs Rick mentioned above, taking pics of planets/moon at long focal lengths is mostly driven by seeing conditions. One last thought is that 1900 focal length, with the ETX-125's relatively flimsy mount, even the shutter curtain will cause a large amount of shake. I've had good luck using focus stacking software like combineZ with a few of the sharpest frames to emphasize only the sharpest areas of the moon. But with an object as large as the moon, usually that great seeing is localized to a smaller portion of the moon. The video would be running about 2 arcseconds/pixel, so fairly undersampled.īut video would give you the best odds of capturing a great fleeting seeing moment. Add a 1.4x TC and you can still (barely) fit the full Moon in a single frame and would be at a reasonable 0.5 arcseconds/pixel, probably close to a good balance between detail and diffraction with just the 125mm aperture at f21. 7 arcseconds/pixel, so even then you are undersampled a little. With the ETX-125 at 1900mm focal length, even at full resolution, you are at about. Generally, to get the most out of every pixel, you'd want about. ![]()
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